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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.